The
Golden Triangle - India's Essential Exploration
First
time travel to India can be a daunting experience. Debutante, Rod Eime,
shares his experience and tries to alleviate your concerns about travel
to the mysterious subcontinent.
To say
India is a vast land of extremes is something of an understatement.
A traveller, especially a first-timer like me can and probably will
experience the entire gamut of emotions and sensations on their journey
to the mysterious subcontinent. Some will, no doubt, welcome this avalanche
of sensory experiences, while others will want to avoid, or at least
minimise, the deluge of stimuli. I tried, with mixed success, to tread
the middle ground.
To give
you some idea; you'll be amazed beyond words at the vast and extravagant
palaces, forts and temples that abound throughout India, while at the
same time you'll be struck by the abject poverty in which the lowest
castes live. You'll satisfy your wildest cravings when immersed in the
rich cultural heritage of this ancient civilisation while, almost at
the same time, be frustrated to despair at the often pedantic bureaucracy
and re-tape that is integral with modern Indian life.
To
just "lob" in India is not something the debutante should
do. Of course it depends on the individual, but to become comfortable
within India takes time and usually several trips. My heartiest recommendation
for your first trip is to use one of the many pre-packaged tours available
from the plethora of companies offering itineraries to India. Mine was
compiled by the Travel Corporation (India), or TCI for short and I was
grateful for their sensitivity and flexibility when I needed it most!
So
where do you start? The Taj Mahal, without too much argument, is the
most recognised symbol of India and any travel agent can slot you into
an efficient package that takes in what is known as, "The Golden
Triangle". Visiting three of the richest and most diverse cultural
centres of India; Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, this tri-cornered exploration
will quench your initial curiosity and likely leave you hankering for
more.
On one
of these tours you will almost certainly travel by coach, but train
or taxi is also a popular option. Self-drive is not. The roads of India
defy description and often you'll find yourself hiding your delicate
eyes from the mayhem outside. Driving in India deserves its own book,
let alone a paragraph here.
Delhi
will occupy your first few days while you gaze in awe at the likes of
the Qutb Minar, Humayun's Tomb, the Jama Masjid and the imperious Red
Fort. Gain a few points toward your Indian Adventurer's badge when you
tour the seething Chandni Chowk, near the Red Fort. Set up by the prolific
and expansionist Shah Jahan of Taj Mahal fame, Chandi Chowk is the madly
buzzing hub of Indian street commerce and the nominal centre of "old"
Delhi. In contrast to the ancient capital, New Delhi was proclaimed
in 1931 as an "Anglo-Indian Rome" replete with modern architecture
wide, tree-lined boulevards and copious flower-stocked parklands.
A "day
at leisure" can incorporate any number of the huge choices of shopping
options. Prices for any single item can, take it from me, vary wildly.
Often the first figure quoted to you is hugely inflated in optimistic
hope you will just agree and pay. But haggling is an accepted method
of negotiation and can yield welcome bargains. An item initially offered
for say, ten dollars, can often be secured for as little as two or three
dollars after protracted theatrical offer and counter-offer. Tipping
is another delicate art and is a must if you want to receive a level
of service we're used to elsewhere. Indian porters, guards, waiters,
taxi-drivers and lavatory attendants, you'll find, are not at all backward
in soliciting for a gratuity.
The
second corner of the triangle is Agra, two kilometres south of Delhi,
former capital of the Mughal conquerors and home to the fabled Taj Mahal.
In accounts dating back to the 1600s, Agra was a "dream city"
of palaces and temples visited by diplomats, traders and rogues alike,
all seeking favour with the incumbent ruler and access to the wealth
within. Today, there is not much to Agra except the Taj Mahal and the
Red Fort. The streets are dusty, unkempt and chaotic, even by Indian
standards, so once you've seen the key sights, move on.
Once in
Agra, you'll reach the Taj Mahal by electric shuttle. The smoky omnibuses
of yore long since decreed unfriendly by UNESCO's World Heritage edict,
and after a thorough security check, you'll find yourself strolling
amongst the immaculate architecture of the Taj Mahal. The entrance is
through a dramatic arch that "delivers" you into the realm
of the Taj Mahal and sets the scene for the breathtaking sight before
you. Even for the most sophisticated of world-travellers, the Taj Mahal
is a splendour to the eye. Completed in 1655 after twenty-two painstaking
years of construction, this venerable "monument to love" has
withstood numerous earthquakes by virtue of its superb construction
from unique translucent marble. The Red Fort of Agra is also an impressive
construction, but much more utilitarian and purposeful than its passion-inspired
neighbour on the Yamuna River.
The
third corner of our triangular journey takes us to the fabled "Pink
City" of Jaipur, the vibrant, bustling and immensely colourful
capital of Rajasthan. Unlike its neighbouring metropolises, Jaipur gives
a certain style and energy to the hubbub of Indian urban life. Taxis,
rickshaws, bicycles, camels and mules all vie for the road space which
seems a little more generous and well-planned than in other cities -
and all this in apparently less stressful and hectic fashion.
The "pink"
is derived from the rich hues of the architecture, constructed from
rare coloured sandstone. One of the most outstanding examples of this
is the towering Hawa Mahal, effectively a giant, elaborate façade
from which the women of the court could observe the festivities below
without attracting unwelcome gazes from the commoners. The Rajasthani
dress code, especially for women, goes beyond the simple elegancy of
the traditional sari to bold reds and crimson. Adorned with gold and
silver, they carry themselves gregariously yet with grace and charm,
in keeping with the ease and confidence of the city.
Traditionally
an important trading centre, Jaipur has thankfully retained most of
its historic character and is a wonderful, almost magical place to visit.
My only encounter with the tenacious street vendors so rampant throughout
India was at the famous Amber Fort where they will harangue you mercilessly
as you make the journey up and down the steep rampart atop a lumbering
elephant.
The
immense Amber Fort, a few kilometres out of town, is overshadowed by
another older fort high up on the protective Aravalli hills, both built
well before the first stone of Jaipur was laid in 1727. Touring these
gigantic defensive structures is a humbling experience and reminds you
that, unless you were a fantastically powerful and dedicated ruler,
your life wasn't worth much back then. Despite the fierce and brutal
power struggles that saw rulers come and go all over India, Jaipur is
something of a monument to the finer arts and sciences. The World Heritage
listed Jantar Mantar is an open-air observatory which amply displays
the highbrow capabilities of the city's founder, Jai Singh II.
Leaving
Jaipur and heading back along the ridiculously congested highway to
Delhi and imminent departure, leaves a heartfelt longing to see more
of this region. If your selected itinerary allows a few extra days in
India, spend them in Jaipur.
Reminiscing
afterwards on your short, but fantastic journey to the subcontinent,
the many little tribulations of your discovery will quickly melt away
into the amalgam of richly diverse experiences gleaned in those few
jam-packed days. The memories and recollections will last much, much
longer.
The
author travelled courtesy of Tourism
of India
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